My husband and I have lived in Portugal since 1986, moving here with our families as children. We’ve essentially grown up alongside the country. We got married here (pictured above, the Algarve wedding) and Gibraltar (for the official bit, it was just easier to do that, at the time). We did consider leaving once—in our late twenties, we looked at moving to Canada. And as much as we adore Canada, we’re both really glad we stayed.
So when I say Portugal is the best country for a fresh start, I’m not just hopping on a trend—I’m speaking from nearly 40 years of real-life experience. But let’s be clear: it’s not all sunshine and sunsets. I’m here to give you the real picture—the good, the bad, and the bits no one else tells you.
The Weather: Not Always a Sunshine Paradise
Yes, Portugal has a reputation for great weather—and sure, we get loads of sun. But let’s not pretend it’s perfect. Winters, in the south as well as the north, can be cold and damp. Older homes are often poorly insulated, and when it rains (like it did all this past winter), it can feel like it’ll never stop. Golfers and outdoor types struggled big time.
At 49, I feel the cold more than ever. While I once enjoyed cooler weather, now I just crave warmth. On the flip side, I hate really hot weather too. During the scorching months, you’ll find me inside, with all the shutters closed, playing a game of “chase the shade” around the house.
That’s why I’m SO excited about moving into our new home (any day now!) which, thanks to my very clever husband, has top-notch insulation. Honestly, it’s all about year-round comfort these days!
Driving, Biking & Roads: A Love-Hate Relationship
We love to drive, and Portugal has some stunning routes. My husband Michael has been a biker since he was five, and there’s nothing he loves more than a Sunday ride with his biker crew through the hills and quieter countryside. They know the best roads for a blissful ride.
But (and it’s a big one)… driving in Portugal has gone downhill lately. It used to be quieter, more relaxed. Now, popping into Portimão can be a full-on nightmare. Traffic is heavier, tempers shorter, and the roads feel less safe. Since the A22 motorway became toll-free (yay!), accidents have increased (not so yay). Driving standards have never been Portugal’s strongest point, and with more people living and working here now, it’s getting worse.
Top tip: stick to smaller towns and off-peak times for driving. And if you’re a biker—Sunday mornings in the hills can still feel like magic.
Tourist Hotspots: Where to Avoid (Unless You’re into Lager Louts)
Let’s talk Albufeira. The old town? Gorgeous. Full of charm, character, and Portuguese soul. The new town? Well… unless you enjoy football-fuelled crowds and drunk Brits on a stag do, avoid it in peak tourist season.
Instead, consider the southwest coast (around Sagres and Aljezur), the eastern Algarve, or head into the Alentejo. It’s quieter, more authentic, and drop-dead stunning—especially in spring and autumn. Just be prepared for very hot, dry summers and do not skimp on insulation if you’re buying or renovating!
Speaking Portuguese: Just Try (It Matters)
Even if you only know a few words, use them. Portuguese people will absolutely appreciate the effort. Walk into a shop or café and say a simple “bom dia” with a smile—it can completely change the interaction.
What doesn’t work? Walking in and demanding to be spoken to in English. That’s just rude anywhere. A little effort goes a long way, especially with bureaucrats, service staff and shop owners. It builds respect, and you’ll find people will be so much warmer and more helpful.
And if you’re curious about some of the quirky superstitions that locals genuinely believe in, check out my post on Superstitions in Portugal — it’s a fun dive into the country’s mysterious side.
Bureaucracy & Customer Service: Honest Talk
Portuguese bureaucracy is… let’s call it “character-building.” You’ll need patience and probably a decent lawyer or translator if you’re not fluent. Things take time. And sometimes, no one really knows why.
Service in shops and restaurants? Let’s just say it’s inconsistent. Sometimes you’ll be treated like a queen, other times you’ll walk in and get a stare that says, “What the hell do you want?” (We joke about this a lot.) I’ve made it my mission to try and get those people to smile—sometimes it works, sometimes I fail spectacularly. Especially if I’m having a full-on perimenopausal day and can’t be bothered to care.
That said, the Portuguese are genuinely warm and friendly people once you break through that outer shell. They’re just not always into fake smiles or small talk. It’s a different kind of vibe—but a real one.
Vegan in Portugal: A Struggle (Outside Lisbon)
I’ll be honest—Portugal is amazing for food… if you eat meat or fish. If you’re vegan like me? Good luck, especially outside the major cities. Lisbon is brilliant for plant-based dining, with loads of fabulous vegan restaurants. The rest of the country? Not so much.
Eating out as a vegan often means chips, a lettuce and tomato salad with bread (the bread is almost always delicious though!) and maybe some rice. If you’re lucky, there might be a chickpea dish. We make it work, but it’s not ideal. There are exceptions, of course, but they’re few and far between. I’ll do a full post on this soon! For finding vegan-friendly spots wherever you are, I always recommend checking out Happy Cow — it’s a lifesaver!
The Real Cost of Living in Portugal (Let’s Talk Basics)
Let’s cut through the sunshine-and-sardines fantasy for a minute and talk about what life here actually costs—because honestly, Portugal isn’t as cheap as it used to be. Especially when it comes to the everyday stuff like food, bills, rent and just… existing.
We’re just a couple, and every time we go food shopping, it feels like we’re haemorrhaging money. And I’m not even talking about fancy ingredients—just your basics. I seriously don’t know how families are coping!
Housing in Portugal: Rents Are Rising and Places Are Scarce
If you’re moving to Portugal and hoping to rent, brace yourself. Long-term rentals are getting harder to find—especially in the Algarve and Lisbon. So many landlords are now doing short-term holiday lets instead because they earn more in a week from tourists than they would in a month from locals.
And when you do find a long-term place? The rent’s likely to make your eyes water.
For example:
- Small 1–2 bed flats near the coast: easily €900–€1,300/month
- Larger family homes: €1,500 and up (if you can find one!)
- Inland or rural? More affordable, but you’ve got to compromise on convenience or modern comforts
It’s not just expats feeling the pinch either—Portuguese salaries remain much lower than in most of Western Europe, so locals are being squeezed big time. The average monthly wage is around €1,000–€1,200, and with rising costs everywhere, it’s getting harder and harder for people to make ends meet.
Grocery Prices: Not What They Used to Be
You might’ve heard that food is cheap here. Well, it can be if you stick to seasonal produce and shop at local markets. And honestly? That’s my biggest tip—buy local, buy Portuguese. Skip the imported brands and go for homegrown. You’ll get better prices and often better quality too.
Some rough prices we’ve been seeing lately:
- Loaf of decent bread: €2.50–€3
- Oat milk (or almond): €2.50–€3.20
- Tomatoes (in winter!): €3.50/kg
- Bananas: around €1.20/kg
- Pack of vegan burgers: €3.99–€5.50
- Garlic (yes, even garlic!): €5/kg in some shops (cheaper if you buy local)
- Vegan cheese: €3.50–€6 (tiny packs!)
Shopping at places like Lidl, Aldi, and the local mercados can save you a decent chunk compared to the bigger chains like Continente or Auchan (although they all have their sneaky specials if you keep your eyes open).
Utilities in Portugal: Winter Is a Shock to the System
Portugal might be sunny, but the houses are not built for winter. Unless it’s a new build with proper insulation (like ours, finally!), expect cold, damp interiors and the joy of layering up like you’re going camping inside your own home.
Our bills as a couple look something like this:
- Winter electric (with heaters or A/C): €150–€250/month
- Small Gas bottles: about €30 each (lasts 2–3 weeks)
- Water: €20–€40/month
- Summer electric: cheaper, unless you’ve got the air con on full blast
Heating with wood can be an option if you’ve got a fireplace, and it’s cosy, but there’s still the cost of buying and storing wood to think about.
Transport in Portugal: Adds Up Quickly
As of early 2025, petrol prices in Portugal average around €1.70–€2 per litre.
Owning a car is way more expensive than it should be. Used cars here are overpriced and tend to hold their value ridiculously well, even if they’re old. And while insurance and road tax are cheaper than in the UK, it doesn’t really balance out.
Other things to note:
- Parking in towns: €0.80–€1.20/hr
- Public transport is decent in cities, but outside of them, it’s hit and miss
- Buying a car: borderline outrageous. No other way to put it. We’ve started buying our cars in Germany and importing them which often makes it a bit cheaper!
Final Thoughts: Affordable? Kind of. But Not Always.
Look, life here can be affordable—if you’re smart about it. Shop at local markets, buy Portuguese brands, cook at home more, and choose where you live wisely. The cost of living is definitely up, but you can still carve out a beautiful, comfortable life here without totally breaking the bank.
Just don’t move here expecting bargain-basement prices on everything—those days are long gone. Still, if you love sunshine, culture, good coffee, and a more relaxed way of life, it’s worth every cent.
Coffee, Wine & the Little Joys
Portuguese coffee is the BEST. After travelling to the US, Canada or the UK, the first thing I crave when I get home is a good old abatanado (our version of an Americano). My favourite brand? Delta. It’s smooth, strong, and absolutely perfect.
And the wine… oh, the wine. Portugal produces some of the best wine in the world in my opinion, and it’s still very affordable. Even the Algarve has stepped up its wine game in recent years. Whatever your taste, there’s something for you—and it won’t break the bank.
Let’s Talk About Crime in Portugal
I’ve got to be honest—while Portugal is still considered one of the safest countries in the world, I personally don’t feel all that comfortable walking around the towns at night anymore. And that’s coming from someone who’s lived here since the ‘80s.
Crime has definitely crept up in recent years. We’re seeing more reports of petty theft, break-ins, car crime, and general anti-social behaviour, especially in the bigger towns and tourist-heavy areas. Is it on par with big city crime elsewhere? No, not really. But it’s different to how it used to be—and if you’ve lived here a long time, you feel it.
There’s also been a lot of talk about who’s to blame, and some of it has been really uncomfortable to hear—blaming specific communities or immigrants. But honestly? That kind of narrative doesn’t sit right with me. Portugal, like everywhere else, is changing. There are more people, more pressure on services, more inequality. It’s not about race or nationality—it’s about systems not keeping up.
So, what can you do? Be street smart. Lock your car. Be aware of your surroundings. Maybe don’t wander quiet town streets late at night if you’re on your own (I don’t). But also—don’t live in fear. The beauty, culture, and sense of community here still shine through.
So, Is Portugal Still the Best Place for a Fresh Start?
Yes. But not because it’s perfect—because it’s real. Life here has quirks. Frustrations. Surprises. But it also has soul. Simplicity. Beauty. Warmth. If you’re looking for a lifestyle that feels more connected to nature, community, and yourself, Portugal still has that magic.
You just need to know what you’re getting into. Bring your patience. Learn a few words of Portuguese. Brace for the bureaucracy. Accept the odd cold winter and the limited vegan options. But then breathe in the pine-scented hills, take a drive through the winding countryside, sip a glass of vinho tinto while watching the sunset—and you’ll see what I mean.
It’s not just a country. It’s a way of life.
Photos courtesy of Canva
